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Muddler I’m not the source of all knowledge on handplane id’s but have seen quite a few through my past tool collecting days. Maybe a pic would help, but I’m guessing it’s not too old.
But hey, you don’t have to put that “brand” of blade in it to use it.
despite some nasty gouges in the sole, there is little rust or pitting on it and it is almost dead flat.
there is still plenty of japaning left, and it seems that the rust is mainly on the surface.
On that rasied area that the frog attaches to is a “C 73”, on the back of the frog is a “C 44”, and on the back of the lever cap is a “C 116”.
There is no raised lip around where the front knob is seated.
The only significant marking is behind the front knob – “MADE IN USA”.
the knob and tote look as if they had some reddish stain or paint on them at one time.
i guess if if fails, I can go back to the epoxy idea.And don’t worry – I won’t clean it up too much :) hey Tom – I was reading the tutorial about embedding the pics, but I am using flickr and couldn’t find how to get the HTML tag. -- ...straight lines or tight lines, either will make me happy!Muddler I purchased this same plane at the local antique shop – I gave .50 for it.I figure to use epoxy to fill the gaps and hopefully make a stronger bond (any suggestions welcome if you don’t think that is a good idea).I’d like to keep the original knob and tote – there’s something to be said for touching and using the same handles that my grandpa used.
As far as I know Stanley type irons work as do Hockand LN. I was hoping that the “C” letter before all of the code numbers would’ve indicated something to you guys, but I realize that there were so many different companies and so many knock offs that identifying this plane might be tricky.